Method of and device for weaving



Dec. 10, 1940. CLARK 2,224,563

METHOD OF AND DEVICE FOR WEAVING Filed Nov. 15, 1956 2 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOFQ.

TCJFQNEZY M. CLARK METHOD OF AND DEVICE FOR WEAVING Dec. 10, 1940.

2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed NOV. 13, 1936 mazyaiet 55am? INVENTOR.

ATTORNEY Patented Dec. 19, 1940 tlhl i iffild l g earner iii" Claims.

This invention concerns a novel method of weaving; implements, tubes and/or apparatus desirable for the exercise of said method; and the novel products obtained by the use of my invention. 7

It is an outstanding departure of the instant invention, that the weaving is performed at the very end of, and even upon extensions of the warps. The warp end or an extension thereof must be of a certain rigidity, and if too limp it must be suitably reinforced for the weaving operation. Warps may be used, which by themselves have a desirable stiffness, so thatit is not necessary to reinforce by stiffening either the whole warp or its end, or by providing a stiff extension. Ordinarily the invention does not lend itself for the manufacture of an extremely fine weave; but generally speaking it may be applied to a greater variety of materials in more modifications and better variegation, then any formerly known weaving method.

In accordance with this invention, I always weave proper, i. e. form the woof, at the very end of the warp, and then I move or slide back along the warp, the woof produced by Weaving upon the end of the warp. As more and more woof is produced .and slid back along the warp, the warp eventually is fully covered by the woof. Of course I may weave from both ends of a warp, the woof produced from both ends meeting between the ends when slid back from the end along the warp.

The nature of the instant invention requires that ordinarily the warp end,said term also comprising an extension of the warp,upon which the weave is produced, differs from the comparatively limp woof material woven thereonto. If the warp is per se of such stiffness, that no further reinforcement is necessary, but it per- 40 mits performance of the weaving of the end thereof, as it would be the case when stiff wires or rods are used as warps, then additional implements or reinforcements are not necessary at all, as long as the number of such rods necessary for producing the intended width of goods can be held in substantial parallelism in the hand of the weaver, the other hand serving to carry the woof material back and forth in weaving fashion over the end of the warp and so to mount it thereon.

If the woof applied to the warp end is slid back upon the warp into tight formation, then the warp will not show at all, and it is possible under these circumstances to choose such material for the warp, which will lend greater strength and durability to a fabric, but which may be less desirable in appearance. Ifthe warp materialor its end is not of the desired rigidity or stiffness, i. e. an additional reinforcement is necessary for the Weaving operation,

then such reinforcement may be applied to the whole warp or to the warp end permanently, or only temporarily for the period of Weaving, interiorly exteriorly, or it may assume the shape of an extension of the warp.

An interior reinforcement may be applied by inserting a stiffening rod, a. thin needle for instance, into a warp from the end thereof, or the warp may be impregnated with a. material endowing the. end with the desired stiffness or rigidity.

If the reinforcement is to be exteriorly applied to the warp end, I prefer the use of sleeves or bushings slid over the end of the warp, when the warp is round. But under these circumstances the tube or sleeve may also be open in formation, for instance U-shaped. If the Warp material is oblong in cross-section, as it would be for instance the case in connection with flat strips of leather, a flat support for one side of the end of the leather strip may be suflicient, or it may be folded back upon itself and forkedly extend over. the material, in order to provide the desired reinforcement for the weaving operation.

Reinforcing means applied to the end of the warp for the purposes of exercising the instant invention should be fastened thereon, so that they stay upon the end of the warp duringthe whole weaving operation, and will not slip back around the warp, when the woof produced on the warp is slid back. This also applies in case I use an extension on the warp, upon which the weaving operation is performed. The question whether a reinforcement is applied to the end of the warp itself, or extends therefrom is mostly a question of choice or practicability.

For the beginner it may prove useful to use implements which retain the warps in the desired relative position of parallel alignment-for the weaving operation. But implementsor apparatus for such purposes may generally be used, when a greater number of warps is to be interwoven in producin and goods of a greater width, then corresponding to the number'of warps which can be conveniently gripped in the hand of the user. To stands, frames, devices or various kinds of holders used in this connection I also lay claim in the instant invention.

The goods produced by way of the instant in vention are distinguished in various ways from goods produced by weaving methods of the old art. Inasmuch as the woof is ordinarily tightly pushed back and together on the warp, it represents a more compact surface, the compactness being however adjustable at random according to choice or judgment of the operator. If we consider, that the ordinary weave generally consists of two layers throughout, a layer of woof and a layer of warp, the goods produced in accordance with the instant invention will ordinarily comprise three layers, the layer of warp, and two layers of woof.

Inasmuch as adjacent warps may be interconnected at one end, one being looped back to form the other, it is very easy to produce a simple selvage at at least one end of the goods, since the woof furthest pushed back will automatically lodge in the loop formed between adjacent warps. It is also up to the discretion of the operator greatly to modify a product of this invention, particularly in contrast to what would be woven in the prior arts, to weave the woof with the warp at any angle different from a direction normal to each other, or in zig-zag formation. Such results may be produced by applying more or less woof on one or the other or on opposite sides to the parallelwarps and then continuing by the ordinary operation of laying in woof right acrossall warps.

It is understood that if the warp per se are comparatively stiff, but still bendable, then the finish goods may be shaped, so that they extend in three dimensions, so to speak; or so that they are curved in a plane. Thus this invention is clearly distinguished from the prior art by the possibility of training the warps in any desired direction. Whereas it has been heretofore the universal custom of extending the warps in a straight line, and to apply the woof substantially normally thereto, I may weave a piece of goods in accordance with this invention to swerve in any desirable direction, be it angular or curved. Likewise the woof may be arranged at a slant upon the Warp in, or slanted sections of woof may be interspersed between woof normally to the warp.

Inasmuch as the formation proper of the woof or the first step of my novel method takes always place at the very same end and portion of the-warp, said portion, or the reinforcement applied thereto, or the extension used for reinforcement, may be shaped to facilitate the weaving; for instance the reinforced ends may be shaped so that by manipulation they alternately provide sheds for the consecutive insertion of layers of woof.

The various modifications of the invention, as well as the inventionitself will be better understood from a few illustrations indicating examples of the many ways of execution, which may be applied to my invention.

In the drawings:

Fig. 1 shows in a plane view reinforcing and aligning implements finding use in the instant invention, and it also indicates the start of the operation of my weaving method.

Fig. 2 shows in a similar view a progressed stage of the method of my invention, the woof having been pushed back along the warp, so that enough clearance for further weaving is provided at the warp ends.

Fig. 3 illustrates, how various pieces of goods produced in narrow strips by means of my method may be assembled. This is also a plan view.

Fig. 4 shows an elevation of a needle, which may be. used for reinforcement in my invention, representing an extension of the warp.

Fig. 5 shows in a perspective view the elevation of a sheet of metal shaped to provide an elastic support for warp ends during the performance of the method hereof.

Figs. 6 and 7 represent schematic side views of flat reinforcing means shaped to facilitate a shed formation, the two figures showing the reinforcing flats in alternative shed-forming positions. A cross-section is superimposed at 5| in Fig. 6.

Fig. 8 shows a perspective view of the end of a modified warp reinforcement.

Fig. 9 indicates schematically a spool containing warp thread, the reinforced thread extending therefrom.

Fig. -10 illustrates in. a plan view a piece of goods of my invention during manufacture, indicating more particularly various unusual features of arrangement, which I may impart during production.

Fig. 11 shows in a perspective a more elaborate set-up of various implements used for weaving goods in greater width.

Fig. 12 is a rear perspective view of implements allocated for pile weaving.

Similar numerals refer to similar parts throughout the various views:

Analyzing the drawings in respect to various examples of reinforcing means, which may be used in connection with the performance of the instant invention, we find a warp end to be reinforced per se in Fig. 9, where the end 23 of a thread 22 taken up from a spool 2| is reinforced by impregnation with a suitable material, say sodium silicate.

If the reinforcement is to be outwardly applied, it may be fiat material, as suggested by Figs. 6 and 7; it may be shaped angular or like a trough (see part 35 of Figs. 5 and 11); or it may be a tube (Figs. 1, 2 and 8) the thread may be pulled through the tube by means of a needle and the thread may then fill the tube; in which case the tubes need very little strength per se, and may be made out of paper, Cellophane, Celluloid, etc., but of course also of metal or glass. The easiest way of preventing the warp 22 from slipping out of such a tube 24 is to provide a knot 25 at the very end. But I may also provide a protruding part on the tube 24 where or upon the end of the warp 22 or a loop in the warp may be hooked, clamped or seated, or may provide a cap 26 (Fig. 8) which is substantially slit, except at the top part thereof, where a loop in the warp 22 extends thereover by way of the opposite slits, and back through the tube.

When a rod, pin or needle is used, which represents an extension of the warp, an eye 23 in extension 21 may in needle fashion receive the Warp (Fig. 4) I In connection with fiat warps fiat supports may be used, as indicated by the superimposed crosssection 5| of the fiat extension 29 of Figs. 6 and '7. In Figs. 6 and '7 the fiat pieces 29 are meant as extensions, so that the end of the fiat warp may be clamped underneath a clip or tongue 30 struck up from the resilient material of the extension.

The extensions of Figs. 6 and 7 are shown to be curved back and forth, so that the free end thereof may be shifted by manipulation. from the position of Fig. 6 into the relative position of Fig. '7, the manipulating fingers being indicated in a dot-dash outline. Thus sheds are provided, the

nect various war' two fiat pieces 29 of each pair of a plurality of extensions extending in opposite directions as shown. During the shifting operation the lowerends of the flat wires, where the tongues 39 extend up therefrom, serve as a fulcrum, these lower ends of the flat wires being held in alignment by the weave built up thereon equivalently to the showing of 2, where the lower ends of the tubes 25 are retained in alignment by the woofs woven and pushed back thereon.

Of course the tubes or other reinforcing means for the warp may be permanently fastened upon the warp and may be left thereon, or may be cut off when the goods are finished. Thus the tubing 35 of may be fastened upon the end of a warp by a rolling; hammering, stamping or squashing operation, after which the reinforcing means 35 are permanently fastened upon the warp 22 as indicated in Fig. 11. If adjacent warps 22 are interconnected together at their far end 43, the combination warp with the reinforcing means fastened thereon nay be compared with a shoe string or lace.

The reinforced ends of the warp may be held in alignment by the hand, or by a suitable clip or look, such a clamp ti being for instance indicated in Fig. 1.

From the back part 32 of the clamp 3? are her over a long tongue and a short hook (it, the former being engaged underneath the latter. Between the resilient tongue 33 and the flat bacla part the tubes i iare arrayed in alignment.

The free ends of the strands 55 used as woofs may be tied upon the last tube 2 to the rigl and then the strand 55 carried back and forth above and underneath various tubes 2% until it is flung around the last tube to the left; then the some operation is reversed going to the right etc. After the tube 23 has been substantially covered by the woof strands the clip or clamp 3! may be stripped off or taken out and the woof may be pushed back on the warp into a position indicated in Fig. where the reinforcing tubes lie bare and may be covered with more woof by continued weaving. When the weaving is finished the far end of the warp may be tied back into the weave, for instance by way of a needle 57, as indicated in Fig. 2. Or loops 56 may conas indicated in Figs. 3 and 10, these loops providing a convenient selvage for the far end of the woven piece.

Several woven narrow strips may be sewed and gathered together by a thread 58 extended therethrough in a sewing operation by needle El, as indicated in Fig. 3.

If woven goods of greater width are to be prepar d by the method of my invention, I may setup a number of the reinforced warp ends, e. g. 35, in a rack Such a rack 35 with a plurality of aligned holes or slots 39 is shown in Fig. 1 and is exemplarily made of two parts 33 and 38, which face each other along the center line of the holes or slots 39, and are interconnected by a hinge at one end and a convenient latch 4% at the far end.

When a suflicient amount of woof has been arranged upon the warp ends, so that they are relatively supported, the rack 35 may be removed by opening up the hook or latch ti, the two parts 37 and 38 then swinging apart and releasing the warps.

If, after the removal of the rack 3-5 or even in addition thereto, I desire to provide further means to keep the reinforced ends of the warps in alignment, I may provide a tension means like clamp 3! for instance. Thus I superimpose upon the rack 36 a clamping device M in which the two jaws 5 and at are fulcruined upon each other at 4?; they may be forced together at their upper ends by suitable tension means, for instance elastic bands 88. The two sets of jaws 415 and 46 each consist of levers it at each end interconnested. by cross-pieces at the upper ends, whereas the lower free ends serve for manipulation. The cross-pieces of the two sets of jaws may be covered with resilient or yielding material, like felt, cloth, rubber, etc, as respectively indicated at $9 and The woof is woven onto the free end of the reinforcing means 35 protruding above the covering it and of the cross-pieces of the jaws. The reinforced ends 35 may be lowered between the jaws after some woof has been placed thereon. the reinforced ends may be pulled or pushed up again, but the woof remains engaged between the coverings t9 and 56 of thejaws 65 and #55. Upon the emerging reinforced warp ends I then place new strands of woof, and the newly woven part is lowered in between the jaws. Now the reinforced warp end 35 may be pulled or pushed up, the woof remaining clamped between the covering of the jaws t9 and 5t, etc. The woven goods extend below, away from the jaws of the clamping device, more or less in the manner in which the goods depend from a knitting machine.

In Fig. 10 the shot if of the woof extends up and then the shot 12 extends down, across the five strands of the warp. But the next shot 13 engages but the three lower warps, as does the return shot it, and the next shot 15 to the right engages only the bottom Warp. Thus I provide a Slanted edge by the shots just enumerated along which I then may regularly introduce, by normally weaving again across all the warps, a slanted section 62, which may be extended for any desired length on the warp, or which may be discontinued, if I reverse the stagger formation of shots explained at the beginning of the paragraph, as indicated to the right of the shaded, slanted section 62 in Fig. 10.

If I reiterate the stagger formation of shots just described, possibly emphasizing the offset to a greater extent by omitting only one warp for each successive pair of slots or even for each set of more shots, if I then repeat the stagger formation building up again in the same direction, instead of compensating by reversal as it was indicated to the left and to the right of the shaded section 62, then I produce an angle or corner in the woven piece, as indicated at 63.

It is understood by those versed in the textile arts that during weaving warps generally may be added or eliminated, so that for instance a zig-zag selvage may be produced; an eliminated warp may be converted for use in the Woof formation; vice versa a woof strand may be converted to form an additional warp. For variety of effect shots may extend over or under a plurality of consecutive warps, like in other Weaving methods; unlike other weaving methods, each woof must not be one and the same thread across the whole width of the goods but there may be several different threads complementarily making up that woof, i. e., part only of the woof in the woof direction may be produced by a shot of one thread, whereas other parts of said woof in the same direction may be executed in shots of other threads. The number of threads per shot may also be changed at random; different color threads used in these various obvious modifications produce variegation, both sides of the finished goods presenting substantially the same finished appearance.

Pile fabrics may be produced, e. g., by pressing two sets of reinforced warps, each like the set shown in Fig. 1, upon opposite sides of a parallelipedonal body or skeleton 9 (Fig. 12) replaced during weaving by rectangles 92 inserted from time to time, as the woof built up is pushed away from the end in order to make room for more. In order to prevent collapsing, guides 93 for one or the other of the reinforced ends may extend from the rectangles.

Thus the sets are spaced apart to a distance equalling twice the length of the desired pile; whereupon I apply the woof to the two sets as well as extend it therebetween and eventually out the loops to produce the pile, a notch 94 at the front of the body or rectangle serving to guide the cutting knife, all this to produce results in analogy to the general knowledge of the other textile arts.

The woof may be fixedly allocated and bound upon a warp by a last operation, if so desired, e. g., by crowding it towards the selvages at the ends of the warps, or by sizing it in the desired allocation, or by tying in adjacent pieces (Fig. 3), or preferably by a pressing or ironing step which forces the warps up and down between adjacent shot so that it simulates the lay of the ordinary woven textile.

While the warp and its reinforced ends should be smooth, that is not essential for the woof, because the shot of the woof is not slid in across the warp but laid in from the warp ends. The woof thread may therefore be irregularly shaped; e. g., it may be crimped or beads may be arrayed thereon.

Having thus described my invention in detail, I do not wish to be limited thereby, except as to the state of the art and the appended claims may require, for it is obvious that various modifications and changes may be made in the form of embodiment of my invention, without departing from the spirit and scope thereof.

What I claim is:

l. A method of weaving, comprising stiffening .alignment by Weaving thread in woof formation onto their stiffened ends, building up a fabric by continuing said woof weaving operation, and making room for such continuation by sliding the newly formed woof upon said warp threads away from their stiffened ends.

2. A method of Weaving, comprising stiffening the ends of a plurality of Warp threads, engaging said threads in substantially parallel warp alignment by weaving thread in Woof formation onto their stiffened ends, building up a fabric by continuing said woof weaving operation, and making room for such continuation by sliding the newly formed woof upon said warp threads away from their stiffened ends, patterns being formed in the weave by weaving subsequent rows of the woof thread over different numbers of warp threads.

3. A method of producing a weave with curved warps, comprising engaging warp threads having stiff ends in parallel warp alignment by weaving thread in woof formation onto their stiffened ends, building up a fabric by continuing said woof weaving operation, and making room for such continuation by sliding the newly formed woof upon said warp threads away from their stiffened ends, groups of consecutive rows of woof threads being woven from one side over successively more warp threads.

4. A method of weaving, comprising stiffening the ends of a plurality of warp threads, engaging said threads in substantially parallel warp alignment by weaving thread in woof formation onto their stiffened ends, building up a strip of fabric by continuing said woof weaving operation, and making room for such continuation by sliding the newly formed woof upon said warp threads away from their stiffened ends, producing a plurality of such strips of fabric, and joining such strips by lacing a warp thread alternatingly through selvage warp loops of one and the other strip.

MARGARET CLARK. 

